When I called Dallas to dinner tonight, he asked the usual mealtime question, "What is it called?" That's his fancy way of asking what I have cooked. Before I could answer him, he plunked himself down in his chair, looked at me expectantly and said, "Is it pork and jelly toast?" Yes, the classic combination of pork and jelly toast. Move over, coq au vin: there's a new sheriff in town.